|annual, perennials, veggies, trees, shrubs...|
Can't move them under the bench--there's more seed down there. I'd shift it all to the desk, but could it be? More seed?!
A few tips on seed collecting:
- Label immediately--weeks down the road, you really are not going to be able to differentiate penstemon barbatus from p.parryi. I know.
- Let seed ripen fully. One good sign is browning pods and capsules. Become familiar with what a particular seed looks like; the internet is a good resource. Unripe seed will not germinate. If we cut flower stalks that seem a little green, we hang them upside down in paper bags to finish drying.
- Seed from fruit (any seed surrounded by pulp) should be cleaned. Washing helps remove germination inhibitors (we get great germination from New Mexico privet if we plant it right after cleaning).
- Some seed does not keep and should be planted immediately but most will keep for years if stored properly. Seed that gets buggy (think hollyhock weevil) can go into the freezer.
- Veggie seed is pretty straightforward. Clean it; dry it. Some veggies like beets and celery are biennial; they set seed the second year, and will need to be protected over the winter if you want to save seed. If you planted more than one variety, say of corn, and they are in near proximity, they will cross pollinate. Plants grown from that seed will be hybrids (true of any plants close enough to interbreed). Plant only one variety, keep well separated, or cover blooms.
The National Agricultural Library has a pdf of an excellent resouce on seed germination--
Seed germination Theory and Practice.